We stopped at every roadside attraction sporting signs of elk all the way up from California. But no dice. Finally today, we see a herd of 20 elk in the wild. We spot them across the Hoh River that we've followed from the coast up into the deep mountain valleys of the Olympic Peninsula. Gorgeous beasts with a patriarch overseeing the herd warily watch a gaggle of tourists snapping photos on the other side of the rushing snow melt.
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